India clashes with Bangladesh on geographical indication registration of Tangail sarees
Earlier this month, residents in Tangail, Bangladesh, staged a protest against the decision of the Indian government to grant a geographical indication (GI) tag to Tangail sarees, a traditional handwoven garment popular among women in India and neighboring southern Asian countries.
The issuance of GI tags is a method used to acknowledge products with unique characteristics linked to their geographical origins.
The controversy arose when the Indian Geographical Indications Registry awarded the GI tag to Tangail sarees on January 2, 2024, based on an application filed by the Kolkata West Bengal State Handloom Weavers Co-Operative Society. However, the protesters disputed this decision, asserting that the garment has its origins in the Tangail district of Bangladesh.
Tangail weaving stands as one of Bangladesh’s oldest cottage industries, with a history dating back to the late 19th century. The sarees produced are exported to various countries including India, Japan, the U.S., Europe, and the Middle East.
Rajin Ahmed, an associate at Doulah & Doulah in Dhaka and a Supreme Court advocate in Bangladesh, supported the protesters’ stance, arguing that the GI tag rightfully belongs to Tangail, citing historical evidence that ties the saree to the region. However, he acknowledged the complexity of the situation, suggesting that saree weavers may have migrated from Tangail to West Bengal. Resolving this dispute, Ahmed emphasized, would require a careful examination of historical and geographical evidence.
Ahmed proposed that the Bangladeshi government explore legal options, such as petitioning the Indian GI registry and potentially raising the matter with the WTO’s dispute settlement body, to challenge the registration.
Should the issue persist and the GI tag for Tangail sarees remain with India, valid until September 7, 2030, Bangladeshi saree manufacturers could face adverse consequences, affecting product recognition, market share, and competitiveness, thereby potentially leading to economic ramifications.
Regarding the prospect of securing a separate registration for Bangladeshi Tangail sarees, Ahmed cautioned that the process would be arduous, costly, and cumbersome, with the risk of losing protection in certain countries due to semi-generic classification. He urged the Bangladeshi government to thoroughly assess the economic implications and implement measures to safeguard the interests of saree manufacturers.
On January 30, 2024, the Tangail administration convened a meeting to discuss strategies for securing GI protection for Bangladeshi Tangail sarees.
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